A hand-held rotary grating device is configured to grate soft cheeses that have traditionally been exceedingly difficult or impossible to grate. A cylindrical grating barrel is rotateably inserted within a grater housing. The barrel has an advantageous barrel aspect ratio--i.e., the ratio of the diameter of the barrel to the hopper width is sufficiently large that the grated food material falls through the opening of the barrel rather than accumulating and retarding the grating motion. The effective aspect ratio of the barrel is greater than approximately 1.5, preferably between approximately 1.5 and 2.5, and most preferably about 2.0. The barrel includes a graspable handle that is collapsible within the body of the barrel, and which includes a bearing surface that prevents axial movement of the barrel within the housing when the handle is extended, but which allows movement (and removal) of the barrel when the handle is collapsed.