A method of making an expandable shoe is disclosed. An intermediate footwear structure is provided having an expandable upper portion. A stabilizing material is provided to the intermediate structure to resist expansion of the upper portion, and a last is inserted into the intermediate structure. A subsequent manufacturing operation is performed to the intermediate structure, and the stabilizing material is acted upon to permit longitudinal movement of the upper portion. The size of the last is selected from among the sizes within the intended range of shoe sizes for the expandable shoe, depending on the characteristics of the upper portion of the shoe, and the desired shoe size range.