Materials with high levels of unsaponifiable matter, such as extracts from
plants, result in Hydrolysates with unique properties. The very
properties that are sought in the traditional saponification of natural
oils are a result of low levels of unsaponifiables. These properties
include high levels of aqueous surfactant activity, water-solubility or
ready water-dispersability, activity as foaming agents, and the like. The
very objective of traditional saponification processes is to increase the
water-solubility and surfactant activity of naturally occurring
materials. It has been found that the application of a hydrolysis process
to materials, particularly materials with a high level of unsaponifiables
(e.g., at least 6% by total weight of the material) produces a product
with properties significantly different from those products resulting
from the conventional saponification of materials with less than 6% by
weight of unsaponifiables. The resulting Hydrolysates from the practice
of the present invention are substantive, resisting both physical and
aqueous-based removal from skin and hair, exhibit a very unique
surfactant property, and are not foaming agents with water. Hydrolysates
according to the present invention may thus be used to enhance the
performance of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. These Hydrolysates are
bioactive agents and alternative natural carrying agents for topical
application of materials, particularly for application of materials to
the skin or hair of subjects, and provide a substantive support for the
materials carried.