A method for developing an excellent material for enhancing skin barrier
function, and providing a cosmetic which is developed based on the method
and has excellent ability to enhance skin barrier function is described.
The method evaluates skin barrier function by the steps of 1) culturing
normal human epidermal cells in wells having a semipermeable membrane
with two sides, in presence and absence of a test substance; 2) adding a
medium not containing metal ions to a first side of the semipermeable
membrane in each well and a medium containing the metal ions to a second
side of the semipermeable membrane in each well, provided that the cells
are adhered to the first side of the semipermeable membrane; 3) culturing
the cells; 4) measuring the concentration of the metal ions in each
medium; and 5) calculating permeability of the metal ions in the
epidermal cell layer based on the measured concentrations of the metal
ions in each media. The test substance is effective for enhancing skin
barrier function when the permeability is reduced in the medium in which
the test substance is added compared to the permeability in the medium in
which no test substance is added. The larger the level of reduced
permeability, the higher the suitability of the test substance as a
material for enhancing skin barrier function.