Novel methods and compositions for treating aged and environmentally
damaged skin are disclosed which provide improvements in the skin's
visual appearance, function and clinical/biophysical properties by
activating at least one proteolytic enzyme in the skin's stratum corneum.
The disclosed treatment methods involve topical application of a novel
cosmetic composition containing a combination of a cationic surfactant
such as N,N,-dimethyldodecyl amine oxide (DMDAO), an anionic surfactant
such as sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), or monoalkyl phosphate (MAP) and a
chelating agent such as ethylene diamine tetraacetate (EDTA) to stimulate
a chronic increase in the replacement rate of the skin's stratum corneum
by means of corneum protease activation. This chronic, low level
stimulation is effective to induce repair and replacement of the stratum
corneum, epidermis, and dermis of the skin and improvements in the
appearance, function, and anti-aging properties of the skin.